In contrast, I have found that many Trilogy discs are much closer to their numbers when they are new. That longevity is great, but it makes for discs that are harder to cycle. When I started playing, I was given a max weight Champion Destroyer that might still be hyzering when my grandkids are throwing it. The nice thing is, once they break in, they tend to hit a level of stability that stays consistent for a long time. I have bought discs like Shrykes (13/6/-2/2) and Vulcans (13/4/-4/2) that are overstable and only start to break in to be closer to their flight numbers over the course of hundreds of throws. In my experience (and setting reports about inconsistency aside), many of the Innova discs I’ve tried come out of the box much more overstable than their numbers. I have found that, at my power level, this process seems easier with Trilogy plastic. I also have some that are even more worn and will hyzer flip, which is important for me to get good distance with my very moderate arm speed. I have a few in max weight to fight wind (and I don’t really want these to break in), but my workhorses are lighter discs that develop much more mellow flights with significant turn while retaining some fade. They start off with a solid fade for my arm speed (maxing out at 380 feet or so) but begin to quickly add more turn. To cycle my Raiders, I start with Fuzion plastic and weights in the high 160s. It’s a great mold, and I have lots of them in different stages of wear. I have written earlier about how to find a driver that works for you. That means usually choosing the plastic like Star or Fuzion rather than Champion or Lucid. I usually look for lighter weights for the drivers I want to break in and choose a plastic type that is typically less stable and breaks in more quickly. For most of us, we may never put enough wear onto a 175g Champion Destroyer to see huge differences in flight. This is certainly possible and why so many pros have Destroyers that range from overstable meat hooks to flippy rollers.īut is this the best way for many amateurs to cycle their discs? I would say no. Get overstable discs and then throw them again and again until they start to get some turn in their flight. This is what most people think of when they consider cycling discs. If you have had a different experience, please let us know in the comments. ![]() In my experience – and in conversation with lots of players – it seems that brands beat in differently and those differences can be used to your advantage. As I have moved to a mixed bag, I have discovered variations among the manufacturers I throw most often. While there are all kinds of pitfalls in trying to talk generally about plastic, I have found that it is possible to use the differences in the plastic from different companies to make this process easier. It is often not the easiest way, because many casual players start with very overstable discs but never put enough wear on discs like Enforcers or Xcalibers to get a wide range of stabilities. We often think of this process as getting an overstable disc and throwing it until it becomes less overstable, but that it is just one way to get more out of a more limited number of molds. Many pros carry multiple discs of the same mold. It is also a way to get a longer lifespan out of your discs, as they can fill different roles in your bag as their flight evolves. Having multiple discs of the same mold with different flight characteristics allows you to hit different flights and lines with discs that feel familiar. ![]() One of the most common ways to get the greatest number of shots out of the molds you carry is by cycling your discs. Februby Steve Andrews in Instruction, Opinion with 0 comments Changing plastics - and beating discs in - can help open up new flight paths from molds you already know.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |